Projects · Reno, Nevada

The Kart

Seventy-two volts, a 20Ah pack, and a throttle that took three weekends to stop lying to me. This page is the known-good tune. If it ever drifts, everything to put it back is below.

After the fix July 2026

Gas to electric

Before · After
Before

An old MBA racing kart

A vintage MBA Kart Division chassis on a purple frame, still wearing its gas engine and a set of hard slicks. Good bones, tired everything else.

MBA gas go-kart as found
As found · gas
After

72 volts, same frame

Gas engine out, electric motor and a 72V pack in, new side pods and sticky tires. Same purple MBA chassis — completely different animal.

Electric kart, front
Electric · front
Electric kart, side
Electric · side

Hardware

Dialed in · Jul 2026

Controller

ModelFarDriver KR72V80A_81_1KH90
Voltage72V
Power3000W
Line current80A
Phase current260A

Motor & pack

MotorKunray BLDC MY1020
Voltage72V
Power3000W
Rated current45A
Rated speed4900 RPM
Battery20Ah lithium

The bog

And what it actually was

For weeks it wouldn't launch. Stab the pedal from a dead stop, wait, then go. Felt like a slipping clutch on a machine that doesn't have one. I chased current limits, ratios and start torque before I found it.

The pedal swings 0.74V at rest to 4.27V at wide open. The controller's ceiling was set to 4.0V. Push past the top of the declared range and it stops trusting the signal — so full pedal came back as 27 counts out of 256. I was standing on it and the controller was hearing a nudge.

Ceiling to 4.5V, floor to 0.9V. That was the whole thing.

Before — ceiling 4.0Vpedal sweep 0.74 → 4.27V
0.0V4.5V
27 / 256Throttle counts at wide open
After — ceiling 4.5Vfull sweep in range
0.0V4.5V
256 / 256Throttle counts at wide open

The tune

Highlighted = don't touch

Throttle

Throttle Low0.9V
Throttle High4.5V Pedal rests 0.74V, hits 4.27V wide open. This was the bug.
ThrottleResponse1 — Sport
Acc Step128
Dec Step128

Ratios in Speed

500 – 3500 RPM100% Full current off the line. Starving this range is what made it bog.
4000 RPM70%
4000 → 7000 RPMtaper to 0%

Ratios in Gear

LowSpeedLine42%
LowSpeedPhase59%
LowSpeed5400 RPM
MidSpeedLine69%
MidSpeedPhase78%
MiddleSpeed8760 RPM

Current & motor

MaxLineCurr80A
MaxPhaseCurr260A
BoostLineCurr70A
BoostPhaseCurr260A
AN6
LM13
StartIs700
StartKC0 Locked. Won't accept a change — stop trying.
PhaseOffset101 From auto-learn.
PolePairs4 From auto-learn.
LD / LQ900 / 329 Never touched. Mismatched on paper, running fine. Not chasing it.

Functions

HighLowSpeed5 — Button3SpeedMid
Highspeed Pin2 — PIN3
LowSpeed Pin1 — PIN2
SpeedLimit Pin13 — Invalid Was 12-PB4. Nothing wired to it; a floating input was pulling limp mode.
Anti-theft Pin13 — Invalid Was 6-PIN14. Same story. Neither stuck on the first save.
MOE0 — Enable
LimitSpeed8000 RPM
Save Times170

If it drifts

Work top down
  1. Check the throttle range first. Low 0.9V, High 4.5V. If either reverted, that's your answer and you're done.
  2. Confirm both pins read 13-Invalid. SpeedLimit and Anti-theft. Back out of the page and re-read them — they don't always stick on the first save.
  3. Ratios in Speed, 500–3500 back to 100%. If anything got dialed down in the low range, put it back.
  4. Switch to high gear (PIN3) and launch it. Short stabs at full throttle from a dead stop, six or eight times.
  5. Still bogging? Now it's too much current, not too little. Drop MaxPhaseCurr from 260A to 150A and test again. Watch motor temp between runs.
A floating input on a machine that vibrates this much can come back. If limp mode returns and every setting is correct, go look at what's actually on the PB4 and PIN14 wires.
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